THE WOODED MOUNTAINS of Evritania, around Karpenissi, are still quite impenetrable in places. This region, however, is now becoming a favored summer holiday area for Athenians and is sometimes promoted as ‘the Switzerland of Greece’.

It is often referred to as, ‘unwritten’, because successive rulers (notably the Turks) have failed to make much headway into the region. Many of the present inhabitants are returned Greek-Americans.

Most of the villages, such as Klavsi, have economics based on forestry. This area does, however, include some of the finest undisturbed villages of the Greek mainland and. amply repays the effort of getting there. Mountain, forest and terracotta roofs combine in an extraordinary and forceful rural symphony.